Can’t remember off the top of my head if Atlantic hides its content behind a pay-wall. Go read the piece quickly just in case. In the meantime, here’s a taste:

Next is the perilous “connect” phase. If the DNS has looked up and provided the right IP address, your computer sends a signal requesting a connection with that remote site. While your signal is going out, and as the other system is sending a reply, the surveillance computers within China are looking over your request, which has been mirrored to them. They quickly check a list of forbidden IP sites. If you’re trying to reach one on that blacklist, the Chinese international-gateway servers will interrupt the transmission by sending an Internet “Reset” command both to your computer and to the one you’re trying to reach. Reset is a perfectly routine Internet function, which is used to repair connections that have become unsynchronized. But in this case it’s equivalent to forcing the phones on each end of a conversation to hang up. Instead of the site you want, you usually see an onscreen message beginning “The connection has been reset”; sometimes instead you get “Site not found.” Annoyingly, blogs hosted by the popular system Blogspot are on this IP blacklist. For a typical Google-type search, many of the links shown on the results page are from Wikipedia or one of these main blog sites. You will see these links when you search from inside China, but if you click on them, you won’t get what you want.

The full article is available, for the time being, here.

The Atlantic website also has an interview with Fallows on how he did the reporting for the article that illustrates nicely how sensitive-topic reporting is done over here. The interview was conducted by Abby Cutler, with whom, incidentally, I am scheduled to meet for drinks tonight. I’ll let you know if that encounter produces any additional insights.

A little too ideological. A little too alarmist. A little too convenient for the War on Terror.

A young Pakistani journalist named Manal Ahmad, currently a student at my alma mater, was in Lahore on Christmas break preparing to attend her cousin’s wedding when the assassination happened. Yesterday she managed to send an email to students and professors at the school offering her personal take on the situation. It was an enlightening read, raw but reasoned, and eloquent. Most importantly, it offered a viewpoint that, for whatever reason, hasn’t featured much in mainstream US media reports.

Manal consented to let me reprint her email here. This is admittedly something of a departure for Ch-infamous, but I think the story is big enough, and the mainstream coverage one-dimensional enough, to justify the detour.

[NOTE: The email is long-ish. I toyed briefly with the idea of summarizing it but quickly decided it was best to deliver it one piece. I think you'll understand why.]

Dear all,

I am just stunned right now…It’s Friday morning and the whole city is pretty much shut down, people aren’t going to work, all the markets are closed, even the gas stations, the streets are deserted save for police vans, and Lahore looks like a ghost town. Buses aren’t running, neither are domestic flights and trains. Last night all mobile phone networks (except one) were down, but those are working now and so is cable TV and Internet (sporadically), so we can at least watch the news (most news channels were restored after the emergency blackout some weeks ago). I am dying to go out in the streets with a camera and talk to people, but my parents have me besieged in the house so far because its not safe.

I don’t know what to think. We didn’t like Bhutto, but this is just… shocking. When we heard the news, Thursday evening about 7pm, I was at my cousin Mina’s house preparing for her mehndi. A Mehndi is the main fun music-dance-henna celebration that precedes a wedding. All us girls were dressed in brightly colored ghararas, skirts, with bangles, henna on our hands and orange flowers in our braided hair, the house bustling with people before we departed for the plush tented ground next door where the Mehndi was supposed to take place, when an uncle watching the news in another room rushed out and said Benazir had been injured during a suicide blast at her rally in Rawalpindi and CNN had pronounced her dead.

It didn’t sink in. We were just like, no, it can’t be. She’s probably just hurt. It’s a rumor. Seconds later the electricity went out, so we couldn’t watch the TV, and phone lines were jammed, so we just forgot about it because nobody wanted to mar the evening’s happiness, an evening we had been looking forward to and preparing for for months.

But when the time for the event came, and all the family went down to the tent to receive the guests, and no guests arrived, we began to worry. It was confirmed that Benazir was dead, from fatal gunshots – now news started to trickle in that rioting had started in Pindi, Islamabad, Karachi and Lahore. Mobs of angry supporters of the PPP, Benazir’s party, were blockading thoroughfares, burning cars and tyres and storming gas stations in the older parts of the city. We started receiving calls from friends saying they were stuck inside their homes because of fires burning outside or from fear of being mobbed on the streets, or stranded in traffic holdups for 2 hours at a stretch. Like everyone else at the mehndi, I was in disbelief. We tried to shake it off, the young people especially, because it was my cousin’s Mehndi, a time we ought to be laughing, celebrating, happy. My cousin, too, ignored it best as she could, smiling in spite of the fact that her closest friends weren’t there beside her, but we all knew that something terrible had been unleased with Bhutto’s murder, with terrible consequences in the hours, days and weeks to come. Benazir Bhutto had been a friend of the bridegroom’s family, and was even invited to the post-wedding party on the 29th of December.

At the end, only 50 of the 200 expected guests made it to the mehndi event. There was no music and no dancing, the DJ went home without playing a single song, nobody saw the dances we had been practicing for 2 weeks, the bright lights inside the tent were turned off – The nation was officially in mourning, though it was more out of fear of mindless retaliation. But we were still lucky – we later heard that two other outdoor tented wedding events in the city had been stormed by angry rioters bearing flaming torches, and guests had been beaten with sticks.

I tuned into local TV channels this morning to see them making a martyr out of Benazir, like her father was made before her. Black and white photos of her in her youth, mournful music playing in the background, everything designed to induce tears in even her opponents. But I don’t agree with that. It is not the job of the media to eulogize political leaders, living or deceased, and play up people’s emotions to such a degree – and Western media like CNN & BBC are following suit. Their coverage is appallingly one-sided, why I do not understand. It is a sad day, no doubt, I am sad that this happened, I am sad for Benazir and her family, but I am sadder still for Pakistan, and what has followed since last night. There is complete anarchy on the streets of Karachi, and in Larkana, Bhutto’s ancestral village in Sindh. It is mindless violence. People are burning banks, hospitals, bazaars, trains, all for the death of one person.

And the images and comments on TV are just fanning the flames. Nobody is calling for an end to the violence, for people in Pakistan to calm down and not attack each other. It is not the end of the world. Benazir’s death does not mean Pakistan has “lost” all hopes for democracy, as the Western media is portraying it. As always, the media ignores history, ignores the past, and right is ignoring all critical voices. Did she do any good when she was in power before? Why did this happen to her? Who is responsible? I don’t know, and I don’t know when we will know, if ever. Many people here seriously doubt the supposed Al-Qaeda link – it does seem convenient to dump every act of violence in this region on that mythical monster.

One can blame Musharraf’s government, for failing to provide adequate security at the rallies, for declaring emergency and the general instability that created – but people in Pakistan, intellectuals, the educated cadres, are angry at another party too – the U.S. government. It is well-known that the U.S. govt ‘engineered’ Bhutto’s return to Pakistan, forcing Musharraf to drop corruption charges against her though he was unwilling to do so (while Nawaz Sharif did not get the same treatment). Bhutto as well as Musharraf knew of the dangers involved in her return, in the compromise she struck up with Musarraf, in the kind of claims she was making, her open support for U.S. policies, and what she would do if she were Prime Minister – yet she courted danger, she invited danger by sticking her head out out of her armoured vehicle at the rally in Liaquat Bagh yesterday, the same place where Pakistan’s first Prime Minister Liaquat Ali Khan was assasinated in 1951.

And now, now that the country seems to have descended into chaos, many Pakistanis feel that other parties may have something to gain – Musharraf’s opponents within the country, for instance, or even the U.S. govt, for an opportunity to intervene ‘more’ directly in the affairs of this strategic, Muslim majority nuclear power.

That’s another thing the foreign media needs to back down on – the nukes issue. The nukes are not going anywhere, and remain firmly in the control of the army, as they always have. The Western obsession with Pakistan’s nukes is maddening, and really the very least of our worries right now. Our worry is the safety of the citizens from crazy mobs and corrupt, toady, sham democracies like the kind the upcoming elections are likely to bring into power. The elections now seem utterly pointless and farcical with the two key opposition parties not running anymore (Benazir’s PPP and Nawaz Sharif’s PML-N), and only the ruling government in Punjab PML-Q and the MQM (both Musharraf’s allies) in the running. If the U.S. wants stability in Pakistan, then it needs to stop thinking about neutralizing our nuclear weapons or demonizing the religious factions or propping up dictators or so-called democrats, and instead directing its aid towards schools, hospitals and village-level development, political institutions and legal systems and helping Pakistan honor its constitution and its laws. There is no other way.

As I speak, the city of Karachi is in flames. The army has been called in, and a friend in Karachi feels a Musarraf-PPP showdown is looming in the city. The PPP, now under the chairmanship of Benazir’s husband Asif Zardari, a thug of the higher order, feel invincible because of their loss. “Any voice of criticism against the PPP (in Karachi) is like signing your death warrant,” my friend says.

But we don’t want to be at the PPP’s mercy, or Zardari’s mercy, of all people. We want to live our lives in peace, have our weddings and funerals in peace. My cousin’s wedding, scheduled for tomorrow at a big banquet hall in a fancy hotel, is now cancelled, and there will now just be a small reception at their house.

We are sick and tired of politics. We don’t care who’s ruling anymore – we just want peace.

And we need prayers for Pakistan, prayers and positive support.

Still in shock,

Manal
December 28th, Lahore

The offender this time around is a Cultural Revolution-themed restaurant. The offense? Installing a “Liberation Zone” sign above its toilet. From Reuters:

“Times Gone Past,” a restaurant featuring waiting staff clad in People’s Liberation Army uniforms and decorated with photos of revolutionary heroes and maps of military battles, had taken the “red” theme too far and had been ordered to remove the sign, Thursday’s Beijing News said.

“Many customers had expressed their dissatisfaction, believing that putting ‘liberation zone’ on par with a toilet was akin to blaspheming the revolution and was an overly-casual use of the term,” the paper said.

In a country dangerously starved for the catharsis of national self-deprecation, this comes as a major blow. Seriously.

Full Reuters article here, original Beijing Times report (Chinese) here.

[Image Source: Beijing Times]